Decisions, Decisions

Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve done a lot of work on making decisions based on a lot of research and discussions. This might be a boring read, but I want to document my decisions for the build process and keep my own thoughts straight.

First the engine. It’s a big decision and complicated. I’ve decided to overhaul a used engine and do most of the work myself with the help of a few experienced professionals. There is a local guy who has built many engines for race planes and has a reputable engine shop that has offered to be a technical resource and allow me to use his facilities and equipment. While this won’t be for a while, our hours long conversation has reassured me of this approach vs. buying a new engine. He also advised me on which variants and the things to look for in a run-out or used core. So I’ll be keeping an eye out for good deals on eBay, Barnstormers, etc. over the coming year or so and hopefully make a purchase when the right opportunity comes along.

Building my own engine will also allow me to customize it with the options efficiently and cost effectively. I have committed to running the full EFII electronic ignition and fuel injection system. I like the ease of operation the system provides and most of all, the efficiency of the system. I will use the dual ECU option to provide redundancy for IFR operation. Combined with the Show Planes cowl, Flightline AC system, and possibly a horizontal induction pan, there will be some modifications required for sure. But this will be the airplane that I want and an efficient, modern platform.

It will also be heavily electrically dependant. I’m starting on the electrical schematic to include one main battery, one 70 amp alternator, one backup 30 amp alternator, and integrated back up batteries for the EFIS systems. Using the VPX Pro system will integrate my electrical loads with a few exceptions and provide a better insight into the health of the system.

More details to come on all of these decisions, but it paves the way for planning purposes and at least lets me get started on some of the systems side of the build.

Smoothing the skin

Now that the wings are solid on the modified rack, it is time to attack the right wing top skins. I had previously clecoed the skins on the frame to help keep it ridgid, so I added a lot more clecos and started final drilling. It was a lot of drilling and countersinking since the inboard skin and wing walk doublers are countersinked instead of dimpled. No issues here, however, and it went quickly.

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Deburring with the power tool is a breeze and my dad being in town for Christmas lent me a helping hand on the deburring and dimpling. I also got in a couple of cans of the SEM primer in an aerosol can. This is what the original wing builder used and I thought I’d give it a shot. I must admit a like it a lot better than the Dupli-color and may go back to priming everything (I know, I’m so indecisive). It was a nice day, so I rolled everything outside and shot the primer on all the parts, completing the priming of the ribs. I’ll do the left wing when I make it that far. The dogs provided moral support for me.

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Control Approach to my rudder pedals

RV-10 builders have drooled for years over ControlApproach rudder pedal set up and I am no exception. A few lucky guys picked up the available sets and Paul hasn’t produced them for a couple of years. I always kept an eye out for the classifieds for a set but had no luck. I decided to take matters into my own hands and reach out to Paul directly.

As luck would have it, Paul was filling promises and had a small production run with one set left. I weaseled my way onto the list and within a few days, had a set on its way to my house.

These pedals first of all look amazing. The design is much better aesthetically then the Van’s setup and goes along way to making the aircraft interior look professionally done. They are also awesome functionally, feeling much better (in my limited experience, one flight with and one flight without them) especially with the free-castering nose wheel on the 10. They relocate the master cylinders to the back of the pedal arms to clear up some foot space and eliminate hitting them with your shoes. They also move the rudder cables to the tunnel for their entire run.

While the machining and quality of the pieces is amazing, the directions leave a lot to the imagine. The box was well packed but the hardware bag was a bit intimidating!

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After a bit of organizing, it was much less messy and I was ready to get to work.

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I had to re-read the directions a lot, but once I got a start and all the pieces laid out, it makes sense. A bit of jigging was required to get the four holes drilled for the inner and outer tubes that linked the pilot and copilot pedals.

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There is also a shortage of thin washers with the hardware kit, but I fortunately have plenty in reserve and most that I need are needed when installing the master cyclinders. I put everything together and securely stashed them away in the storage racks until ready for the fuse.

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Wing Re-Rack

While both fuel tanks cure, I shifted my focus back to the wings. The first problem I wanted to solve was my wing rack. While it’s a nice storage solution to keep the wings safe and out of the way, I quickly saw that it was keeping the spars in a warped state due to the way it was hanging. So I disassembled the frame and decided to shorten it, allowing the spars to sit on top of two cross pieces. This would allow me to better square the wing and secure it a little better while putting it in a better position to work on it. I’m much happier with the result now, as it’s more of a work platform and a storage solution. I’ll also be able to store the wings on it with the leading edges attached with few modifications.

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Then, I completed my wing-walk through. The wing kit was purchased used by me, and being the second builder, I wanted to first understand all the work that went into them and to ensure the work was done correctly and completely. Overall the wings look very good (as I knew at the time of purchase) but there were a few action items.

There were about six places on the rib-rear spar intersections that had pop rivets instead of the usual AN round head solid rivets. I still don’t understand why, as it was random and only one per rib. So I drilled those out, cleaned up the holes and installed the rivets according to plans. I had only one hole that was really buggered up, where I couldn’t get any rivet to hold.

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A quick email to Van’s said to drill it out and replace with an AN3 bolt and locknut. It was a simple fix and I know it’s all done right now. Every step was checked off on the plans and it is up to speed for me to take over.

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Avoiding a sticky situation

With the drilling and deburring complete, it was time to use yet another new tool that has sat in the toolbox for far too long. This is a bucking bar and rivet set that allows you to insert dimple dies and dimple areas that the c-frame can’t get too. It was useful on the leading edges of the tank skins in the middle of the skin. I did learn, however, that the dies don’t like this tool, especially with a side load on them. I broke two sets of dies. A quick call to Avery and a replacement along with the SafeAir1 pitot mast was on the way.

IMG_1355.JPGIt’s hard to believe that almost all the components of the fuel tank can fit on my little stool.  I scuffed the joint surfaces to promote adhesion for the Pro Seal on all the parts. These are all set for final installation into the skin.

IMG_1359.JPGThis is where things can get sticky. The biggest advice I read was to be prepared for working with Pro Seal and to wear two pairs of gloves while replacing the outer pair often. Once Pro Seal touches a surface, it doesn’t come off without MEK. I used a postage scale to weigh the components, ceramic tile to mix, and the applicator gun from Brown Tool. All that equaled a clean, easy process of using Pro Seal.

IMG_1365.JPGThe wife-copilot-cobuilder-photographer came out to help and we started with the stiffeners. I chose to 100% cleco the parts in place and come back for riveting the next day. It greatly reduces the mess and actually makes riveting easier. Kayla the flight engineer dog came out to support the project as well. The next day, I came out to rivet the stiffeners with a dab of Pro Seal in each dimple to seal the mfr head of the rivets. Turned out well with the tank die dimple, as it’s a nice flush surface.

IMG_1375.JPGIMG_1385.JPGI went solo and finished up the ribs and the j-stiffener for each tank after mixing up yet more sticky stuff. I found that letting the sealant cure for one day was perfect for riveting, so the following day was spent riveting the ribs and j channel. I also went back and put a blob of sealant on each shop head, completely sealing each rivet (hopefully) to prevent any fuel seepage.

IMG_1386.JPGThe next step is to fabricate the fuel vent lines, which consists of straightening very carefully the aluminum tubing and flaring one end to accept the AN fitting through the end rib. I skipped ahead on the plans and riveted the end rib on before putting the line in, but was able to easily work around it. None the less, it’s a good lesson to stick to the plans. Pro Seal is permanent, so no going back and redoing!

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